WWR: Trail Notes: Post 3

Day 11: McGruder to Darby : 51 mi : 3200’

An easy day of riding and thankful for it.  A cool and humid morning leaving everything wet, including my jersey and bibs that were hung to dry from their creek washing last night.  Nothing like sliding on a cold, slimy, wet spandex diaper.  I packed and took my time, chatting with an older gentleman who camped in one of the two official spots.  I had camped in a horse area and it smelled of hay.  Finally rolling out around 9 I started immediately the climb to the last pass I would encounter.  The road turned to paved before becoming steep and the 2600’ climb was downright enjoyable compared to yesterday.  My legs were feeling tired, and worryingly my right Achilles throbbed if I pointed my foot down while pedaling.  But it was manageable with attention.  

Reaching the summit I ate my last traditional pass candy bar.  Descending was immensely fun, averaging over 25 the whole time, often hovering in the 30s until the gravel returned.  The 35 miles down the N Fork of the Bitterroot were relaxing and uneventful, boring given the last few days of remote adventurous travel.  The lower in elevation I went the better, wider, and busier the road became until I ended up on a major state highway going North to Darby.  Minus the highway, this is beautiful country.

As I rolled through town scoping it out on the first pass along Main Street I was a bit overwhelmed by the sheer volume of activity.  This place was hopping... compared to the tiny crossroads I’d been frequenting.  Reaching the end of main, I turned around and headed back, stopping at the tiny museum to ask the clerk if she knew where there might be a place to camp.  She didn’t.  Then to the library, where they recommended a place called The Travelers Rest just down the street on main or the KOA just north of town.  Not convinced I sat outside and tried to do some research on my own with the first cell service I’d had in days.  I was joined by a young couple who were outfitted like backpackers and started talking to them.  They were through hiking the Continental Divide and their story was kinda crazy.  Starting in April from the southern border try had made it to Colorado in early June only to find their route completely snowed in given the record breaking year for snow.  So they transported themselves north to the Canadian border and started hiking South, now finding themselves in Darby to resupply.  From their beta, Travelers Rest was we’re everyone stayed.  So I went there and for $15 I have grass to set my tent up on, water, flush toilets, and showers... that is not going to use.

Chatting with other hikers there and the owner it turns out Darby is a major crossing point for not only those hiking the continental divide, but also cyclists doing the Trans-America route.  And now the Wild West Route, of which I was the 2nd rider to stop by this year.

After a short day of riding, it felt good to stop early and rest.  Reading Kindle books on my phone makes the time go fast and my legs appreciate the rest.
Day 12:  RestI am ahead of schedule.  The deep reserves of my legs are too quickly tapped.  My Achilles does not hurt whenoff the bike, but pedaling is still a bit of a ache.  There is no reason to get to Missoula early, one days ride to the north, as my flight home on Sunday is unchangeable.  11 days straight of riding, with beautiful weather and only 1 wiggled looseand gone bolt to address on my shoe- why not take a rest day?  Darby isa good spot for it.  The Montana Cafe across the street is cheap and delicious.  Everything else one might need is in a short walking distance.  This is good.  I will rest and read and let my mind try something different from the last 11 days.